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Added on the 27/01/2023 15:14:45 - Copyright : France 24 EN
Without a doubt, Louis Vuitton's collection was this year's most hotly anticipated runway show. It was dedicated to the late Virgil Abloh, the label's visionary creative director, who died of cancer in November 2021 at just 41. Covid-19 meant programming was a little lighter than usual, but a host of young labels also managed to put on shows: EgonLab, Georges Wendell and Lukhanyo Mdingi made a particularly good impression, while Kim Jones at Dior Homme put on one of the most beautiful shows of his career. FRANCE 24 takes you to the catwalks at Paris Fashion Week.
This year's ready-to-wear winter collections are all about love and seduction: the delicate balance between what's shown and what isn't. Vaquera has found inspiration in the iconic black latex jumpsuit worn by Maggie Cheung in the 1996 film "Irma Vep" directed by Olivier Assayas. Victor Weinsanto, meanwhile, showcases an extravagant corset-and-cape look for "Emily in Paris" star Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu. Finally, the Love Brings Love exhibition offers a moving homage to late iconic designer Alber Elbaz.
With war raging in Ukraine, it's not easy to know how to speak about fashion – if at all. The best answer is to face the paradox. Thanks to the French Federation for Haute Couture and Fashion, Ukrainian designer Lili Litovskaya is now safe in Paris. At Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia, who fled a Kremlin-backed civil war in Georgia in 1993, offers up a hostile backdrop for his collection. Labels Marine Serrre, Atlein, Benmoyal and Germanier, meanwhile, are championing freedom of expression with their eco-friendly offerings.
War may have broken out in Europe, but the world of fashion has decided that the show – that is, next winter's ready-to-wear Fashion Week – must go on. Financial interests no doubt played a large part in that decision, but so too did the conviction that now isn't the time to be stifling artistic expression. For the occasion, Dior takes advantage of technological innovation, Caribbean duo Botter defend coral reefs and the French Institute of Fashion encourages its students to embrace virtual reality.
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