Travel

Barcelona part 10 La Ribera, Born and beach

Entering the section of old Barcelona referred to as La Ribera, turn from Carrer dels Corders into the major walkway of Correr Montcada, which changes names a few times and basically takes you through the center of this historic zone. This was an area of deluxe palaces of rich merchants back in the 14th and 15th centuries and many of these buildings still stand today, adapted to new uses, such as the Picasso Museum. Love him or not, Picasso was the major artist of the 20th century and lived in Barcelona during his formative years from ages 14 through 23 when his career and fame really got started. Then he left Spain, especially because of his distaste for the dictatorship of Franco, when he moved on to Paris and other parts of France where his genius continued to flourish. Founded after his death, this is the most popular museum in town, with one of the world's largest Picasso collections spread through what had been five separate mansions now seamlessly joined. If you don't want to pay for the museum admission, at least have a look at the series of interconnected courtyards, and you are always welcome to visit the gift shop. Continue south along Correr Montcada, with some diversions through the numerous side streets that honeycomb this most historic neighborhood, with many little shops tucked away. When you get hungry, it pays to look carefully for the little restaurants hidden away in side alleys. Perversely, it seems the most popular eateries are trying hard to not draw any further attention to themselves and don't post signs, menus or addresses. A good example is Nou Celler, tucked away between Carrer de la Princesa and Barra de Ferro just west of the Picasso Museum, offering Catalan specialties, good service and reasonable prices. After lunch, head for the large gothic church, Santa Maria del Mar, with its massive interior second only to the cathedral in size. The church is really impressive, consisting of a huge nave with soaring ceiling supported on pointed arches, and brilliant stained glass. This was all built during the medieval period, in the 13th and 14th centuries, so the architectural form is pure gothic. There is no influence or embellishment here from the later period of the Renaissance, nor was it built upon an earlier foundation in the Romanesque style of thick walls, low ceiling and small windows. Behind is the tree-lined promenade of Passeig del Born with several short shopping streets extending a few blocks south. This neighborhood was the center of town back in the Middle Ages, functioning as the financial marketplace, major gathering spot, execution grounds, and general place to be. Today it is experiencing a rebirth, with many trendy shops and cafes thriving in the blocks around the church. A major park with the public zoo, Parc de la Ciutadella, is about one half-mile further east. Notice the beautiful small plaza in front of the church of Santa Maria del Mar. It is busy during the day as well as at night with the shops and cafes around it, and the people walking through. This is a major pedestrian thoroughfare connecting different parts of the old section of town, so there are always plenty of people to see. When exiting this zone, follow the nice shopping street, Carrer de l'Argenteria, which extends 200 yards from the front of Santa Maria del Mar back into the center of the historic district. If you continue walking south for 15 minutes you will come to the big sandy beach, filled with bodies on a sunny day.